Tuesday, May 6, 2008
New York
The final two days of this trip found us scooting along Lake Erie and the NY-Pennsylvania border. We found the town of Lorain, OH bursting with color right on the shores of the lake. Lake Chautauqua has the most elegant rest stop in the entire country! We wanted to pitch our tent right there. American painter Frederic Church's restored home, Olana, overlooking the Hudson River was another beautiful place where we could have easily spent the night. I enjoyed MOST of the drive, but there was this tiny little part of highway, a blue one, coming downhill over a bridge into Cleveland where this guy in boots and a helmet was standing in the middle of my lane. He aimed a gun at me and BLAM! With his speed gun back in the holster, he waved me over and I almost cried. You see, my children often say I impede the 'normal' flow of traffic with my adherence to posted speed limits. So I was aghast that I actually had exceeded 35mph. I was so miserable, I almost cried. I did not tell the officer that my tombstone is supposed to read She never got a ticket, but that is what I was thinking; it was a first for me. Happily, he felt sorry for me and gave me a warning and sent me on my way to New York. I did not ask him if I could take his picture for the blog, but that would have been cool, huh?
The Real World
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Sunday, May 4, 2008
Red Highways
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Wednesday, April 30, 2008
Things We Learned
- There are few non-smoking areas in Mississippi.
- You can buy bagels almost anywhere.
- Most people sleep later than we do. Most people go to bed later than we do.
- It's wise to gas up at half a tank in the west.
- Concrete block campground bathrooms double as tornado shelters. (We did not learn this first-hand.)
- Powdered milk works fine on cereal.
- Ice cream sandwiches are cheapest in Utah: 55 cents at the grocery store in Fort Garland.
- Most of the time you don't need tent pegs.
- Block ice lasts a lot longer than cubes.
- Doing most westbound driving in the mornings (and eastbound in the afternoons) is easier on the eyes.
- Librarians are unfailingly helpful.
- Small items get lost easily.
- Cell phones work just about everywhere.
- Euros and Japanese do most of the hiking in national parks.
- Mourning doves and vultures are everywhere.
- AAA maps sometimes show ferries that don't exist.
- Gasoline is most expensive in New York, California and North Carolina.
- You can survive without a daily shower. (This was not summer.)
- In California they put the definite article before the highway number: the 101, rather than 95 or Route 6.
- April at Lake Tahoe is still winter.
- Beware the chicken-fried steak.
Saturday, April 26, 2008
Homeward Bound
It has been a wonderful two months and 9700 miles (so far) of new places and remarkable experiences, but the prospect of another mountain or another night in a very small tent is losing its appeal.
Happily, we seemed to to arrive at this point at the same time. In any case we're now driving more and touring less. We're looking forward to seeing little Claire in North Carolina by the weekend, and returning to the Cape in early May. -DJN
Thursday, April 24, 2008
Relocating
So if we decide we want to live equidistant from our children, look for us in this quiet southeast corner of the state, herdin' cattle or raisin' corn. -DJN
Wednesday, April 23, 2008
Ruins
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Today it is Kansas and we are spending a few minutes in a county library waiting for threatening thunderstorms to pass. I feel more at home in this flattened landscape where the smells (of cattle) and signs of spring are in the air.
Speaking of ruins, our air mattress (which makes tent or car sleeping possible) has just sprung a leak - somewhere. Today's job is to find the hole and patch it up before sunset.
Monday, April 21, 2008
Conversations
D: My legs hurt.
J: What from?
D: Probably that hike we took yesterday.
J: Where?
D: I have no idea. Where were we yesterday?
J: I haven't a clue. Mountains somewhere.
In the tent
J: Did you lock the car?
D: I don't know. Did you?
J: I don't remember.
Pause
D: I can't find my keys.
J: They should be in your back pack.
D: They're not there. I'm going to shoot myself.
10 minutes later
D: I can't find my pencil. What did you do with my pencil?
J: Zzzzzzzzz
Driving
D: I'm hungry.
J: Again?? You just ate half a box of Graham crackers.
D. Whatever. I'm hungry. What have we got?
J: There's an apple in the food box and two yogurts probably floating in the cooler.
D: What about the peanuts?
J: You ate them all yesterday.
Ten miles later
D: Do we have any beer?
Hoodoo
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The main feature of Bryce is these fire-colored spires of eroding rock that glow against the deep blue sky. And though I couldn't coax J out of her warm sleeping bag to look over the rim under last night's full moon, it was other-worldly.
Two related memories: J, who you likely know will strike up a conversation with the complete stranger behind her in the grocery checkout line, met her match at Inspriation Point. She turned to a group of tourists looking out at the hoodoos and asked if they were inspired. The Russians replied We do not know this word. What does it mean? And later, as we left the lodge after dinner, a suggestion to the couple (who turned out to be Frenchies) at the next table that they skip the main course and go directly to the hot fudge sundaes.
They stared at her as if she were nuts. What do you think? --DJN
Lucky
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The skies have smiled down on us – no rain, no snow, no clouds – along the very long, very winding roads through spectacular canyons and dizzying heights. I’m sure you’ve seen road signs warning drivers of cattle or deer ahead. In Utah Doug and I shared the road with the beasts.
Truly, the two-lane highways, speed limit 65, are sprinkled with black cows munching or worse and hundreds of sheep showing us their south ends. It was laugh-out-loud funny. If we honked the horn, the animals not on the road already would look at each other and say, “Hey! I guess she wants us to cross over!” and onto the highway they would stroll, joining all the others before us. So, we just nudged them along for a few miles. Still, the prospect of a couple hundred tons of yarn or burger around the next curve kept us on our toes. M-o-o-o-v-e over! We’re heading east!
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Thursday, April 17, 2008
Nevada Tourist Attractions
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In The Middle of Nowhere (actually forty miles east of Fallon along Route 50) was the Shoe Tree (click on the photo to enlarge it), with hundreds if not thousands of old boots and sneakers hanging from its branches. There it was--no roadside sign, no explanation, just a tree full o' shoes.
Next, on a a hill outside old mining town of Austin, we stopped for a picnic lunch at the ruins of Stokes Castle, a three-storey granite tower build by a wealthy mining and railroad tycoon and used for just one year. Its current owner, who inherited the Castle from a family friend, happened to be at the site. He's applying for a grant to restore the building and make it a State Landmark.
Not surprisingly, we were the entire crowd at each spot--a far cry from the Strip in Las Vegas 250 miles south. -DJN
Monday, April 14, 2008
Hot Techies
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Not. It's actually an infra-red image of us which shows body surface temperature. (Cool legs; warm shoulders.) Other good stuff included a room which simulates earthquakes of varying intensities; a roller coaster that you can build, virtually, and then ride; a 'space chair' that you move around in by activating hand-operated jet packs; 3-D facial scans; and going into a clean room and getting a readout of how many dust particles are on you. And more useful stuff like that.
All of which was topped off with an IMAX movie of the Alps, which gave us vertigo but may condition us for crossing the Rockies over the next two weeks. -DJN
Hungry as a Bear
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Once every day or two we eat out and make it count. But recently we have been really scraping the bottom of the bin, and I was craving real food. So, the night before we reached Tom and Kate's home, we camped at Manresa State Beach, near Monterey, and treated ourselves to dinner in a swanky area called Seascape. There we found an upscale Mexican restaurant overlooking the Pacific and it was heavenly. I looked at my salad and almost cried, it was so appetizing. Then my chicken fajita dinner came and I said to Doug, "I LOVE my fajitas!" When the waiter strolled by to check on us, I gave him this silly grin and said, "I LOVE refried beans and I LOVE rice!" We scarfed up every morsel and were totally satisfied. And when dessert was offered, I uncharacteristically said, "Yes, I LOVE key lime pie!" and dove in!
Ridiculous, huh?
Saturday, April 12, 2008
In the Desert
This is out of sequence as we are now on the on the left coast, comfortably lodged with Tom and Kate in Sunnyvale, California, where we biked along the Baylands Trail today and got more sun than we should have. But I wanted to say a few words about the plant namesakes for the two national parks we visited in the past week.
The Saguaro, reaching as high as 50 feet after more than a century, is the largest cactus found in the US. Its root system, however, is surprisingly shallow—three inches below the surface, designed to catch the limited desert rainfall. Woodpeckers and flickers live in nests they excavate in the fleshy trunk; red-tailed hawks build nests in upper branches. The Saguaro’s fig-like fruit has been used for centuries by people of the desert. Even after the cactus withers and dies, its woody support ribs are used to build shelters and fences. But what I like best about the Saguaro is that it’s what we all come up with when asked to draw a cactus. I still have a green-crayoned Saguaro on a yellowing sheet from kindergarten that looks very much like what we’ve been looking at in southern Arizona.
The Joshua Tree, in southeastern California, isn’t really a tree at all but a yucca. (Yipes: we have yuccas on the Cape!). It grows even more slowly than the Saguaro—less than an inch a year, which means a 20-foot Josh is about 250 years old! Mormon settlers supposedly named it after the Biblical character, pointing them on to Zion. The coolest thing I’ve learned about this strange- looking plant is that the loggerhead shrike, a bird found in the park, uses the tree's sharp pointed leaves to impale mice, lizards, insects and even small birds while it rips them to shreds and eats them. We missed this park activity, however, which is probably a good thing. –DJN
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Friday, April 11, 2008
So Much of a Good Thing
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Coastal Blue Highway
A phone call with Tom, who has hiked and camped here, left us with a number of suggestions on where to stop on our way north, and we are now watching the sun set in Kirk Creek Campground on a bluff overlooking the Pacific. We started the day in Morro Bay, a commercial fishing (and tourist) town very much like Chatham, but with a rock rising 580’ above the sea at the entrance to the harbor, and will continue tomorrow to Santa Cruz and possibly Año Nuevo State Park and its colony of sea lions.
I only wish our approach to Tom and Kate’s didn’t mean that we are about to reach the turnaround point of our trip, though (unlike last year) we hope to see some of the places we missed on our 2007 express run to North Carolina to see Claire Frances Kimball, the new granddaughter, whose first birthday is a week from today. -DJN
Saturday, April 5, 2008
The Pass
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Why is El Paso so great?
Reason #1: The Wyler Aerial Tramway, which we rode this morning to the top of 5600-foot Ranger Peak and a 360° view for over a hundred miles.
Reason #2: A Wal-Mart (I can’t believe I’m writing this), appearing like an oasis in the desert right when we needed it for camping supplies, groceries, ice, and even a bottle of Pinot Noir.
Reason #3: Franklin Mountains State Park, where J and I comprise 67% of the campers in this 24,000-acre wilderness in the hills overlooking the Rio Grande and beyond...where all (5) campsites are ‘primitive’ tent sites, which means no electricity, no water, and no 40-foot RVs. We are boondocking here, watching the sun set over New Mexico and anticipating a starry night like we’ve never seen before.
If you look closely or can enlarge the photo (click on it), you'll find us below the shelter on the side of the mountain. -DJN
Cowboys and Indians
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As for Indians, the local Apaches and Comanches often disagreed with the 19th century Anglo settlers who had the habit of picking the choicest land in the region and calling it home. To protect these settlers, as well as stagecoach travel across Texas, the U.S. Army built a line of cavalry posts here in the 1850s. During this time, an experiment with camels as work animals instead of horses in this arid land failed, but mainly for political reasons. The forts—and the camels (a wild herd is still said to roam the hills east of Marfa)—were abandoned in 1861 with the onset of the Civil War.
We walked the ruins of Fort Lancaster today, along the Pecos River, the only visitors in this desolate and very quiet place. -DJN
Lizard Lips
However, my overwhelming impression of the last several days is DRY, Baby, DRY! The bridges span empty gravel beds, the lizards are a dusty gray, and the yucca plants are drooping to one side. We have been driving across parched land where dust devils (isn't that what these little tornado-like whirlwinds are called?) sweep across and stop at the rocky horizon.
But that is not all that is missing water. After tenting it for a week, many places without water or, ahem, facilities, I am one dusty cowgirl. I keep a hat on to hide the brillo pad hair; my skin looks like a lizard's. I am steering clear of mirrors and plate glass windows so I don't scare myself. Poor Doug, huh? He has to look at me, but he deserves it since yesterday he drove me up five gruesome, rocky, heart-stopping, switchback, mountain miles to camp at 7000' where bears hang out. Plus I have removed three disgusting ticks from my poor, flaky self.
Wish you were here (instead of me. ha ha. just kidding. sort of....)
Wednesday, April 2, 2008
Attwater's Last Stand
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During mating season (this is mating season) male APCs inflate the orange air sacs on their necks and 'boom' while dancing frantically in circles--all to attract an attractive APC of the female persuasion.
We hiked in the Refuge yesterday and this is our official wildlife count:
--White-tailed hawk: 1
--Killdeer: 2
--Armadillo: 1
--Buffalo: 46 (recently introduced by the Wildlife Service)
--Attwater's Prairie Chicken: 0
Alas, no boomers for us. -DJN
A Beautiful Day in the Neighborhood
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Note #2: I have no more excuses. It is now operator errors. Pretend it is a video; what can I say? JN
It is said that a picture is worth a thousand words and sometimes a picture just doesn't do one justice. Both are true in this case. In the video to the left, a 'Blue Highways' first (!), I am singing a thousand words and it does not do justice to my talents. Well, musical talents, that is, because it is obvious I have not yet mastered the audio component of video. So, as you watch my performance, sing along to the theme from Mr. Rogers's Neighborhood: "It's a beautiful day in Galveston, a beautiful day in bunker land. If you like millipedes, crabs and gnats, then you can be my neighbor!" I am not complaining; Galveston Island State Park, smack dab on Texas's Gulf coast, was naturally beautiful in a wild way, the rangers were most helpful, and we were thrilled to have the 'bunker' option to tent campin on a stormy night. But, honestly, aren't these just the ugliest things you've ever seen? I saw one motorcycling couple almost join us in this deserted loop until the woman went into the bunker, quickly came out, had a heated discussion with her partner, and left. We were told our cozy cement cube had just been renovated. That meant we had screens, a broom and a light bulb. But I do have standards, low as they are, and despite seeing gorgeous roseate spoonbills and osprey, I could have done without the millipedes IN MY SLEEPING BAG and the land crab IN MY SHOWER! I am outta here! - JN
It is said that a picture is worth a thousand words and sometimes a picture just doesn't do one justice. Both are true in this case. In the video to the left, a 'Blue Highways' first (!), I am singing a thousand words and it does not do justice to my talents. Well, musical talents, that is, because it is obvious I have not yet mastered the audio component of video. So, as you watch my performance, sing along to the theme from Mr. Rogers's Neighborhood: "It's a beautiful day in Galveston, a beautiful day in bunker land. If you like millipedes, crabs and gnats, then you can be my neighbor!" I am not complaining; Galveston Island State Park, smack dab on Texas's Gulf coast, was naturally beautiful in a wild way, the rangers were most helpful, and we were thrilled to have the 'bunker' option to tent campin on a stormy night. But, honestly, aren't these just the ugliest things you've ever seen? I saw one motorcycling couple almost join us in this deserted loop until the woman went into the bunker, quickly came out, had a heated discussion with her partner, and left. We were told our cozy cement cube had just been renovated. That meant we had screens, a broom and a light bulb. But I do have standards, low as they are, and despite seeing gorgeous roseate spoonbills and osprey, I could have done without the millipedes IN MY SLEEPING BAG and the land crab IN MY SHOWER! I am outta here! - JN
Tuesday, April 1, 2008
What's Hot
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In addition to hundreds of varieties of camellia, azalea, palm, bamboo, live oak, and other subtropical plants, the Garden is home to a breeding colony of 20,000 snowy egrets, visible in trees and artificial roosts rising from a small lake. There are so many egrets that every spring thirty truckloads of sticks and branches are brought in for them to use to build their nests when they return from winter in South America.
All this atop one of the world’s largest salt domes... and an active—though very well hidden—oil field. –DJN
Saturday, March 29, 2008
March Madness
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The Five People You Meet in Campgrounds
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Friday, March 28, 2008
Siesta Time
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Wednesday, March 26, 2008
Citrus Roadkill
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This park has a very interesting small museum commemorating the work of the Civilian Conservation Corps, which hired young men from across the country during the Depression and put them to work building facilities such as this: roads, trails, lodges. They were paid a hefty $30 per month for their labor, of which $25 was mailed home.
As remote as we are here, we may have a situation tonight. Just east of us is the Avon Park Air Force Test Range, and we have seen—and heard—a number of military jets zoom overhead in that direction. But we are watching a beautiful sunset, Judy is building her usual campfire, and our air mattress has yet to spring a leak, so all’s well. -DJN
Saturday, March 22, 2008
Alliteration Nation
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Thursday, March 20, 2008
Stoopit Tolls
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So what to do if you have two credit cards, sufficient currency and traveler's checks for three months on the road, but only a dime, two nickels and six pennies and the toll is 50 cents (exact)? Duh. And the buzzer goes off and a bright yellow light spins around and presumably the State of Florida takes a snapshot of your rear license plate. And when you find the right phone number to call to ask what you can do to avoid the "$100 FINE FOR TOLL EVADERS," you're told by a sweet 20-something with a southern accent to wait for a bill in the mail and send a check for the amount of the toll.
Next stop.... Alabama. -DJN
Wednesday, March 19, 2008
Bingo
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Saturday, March 15, 2008
Back to the future
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These red and chrome behemoths each weighed thirteen tons and carried a driver--in a single center seat--and two team members directly behind him in an aircraft-like cabin sixteen feet above the pavement. On arriving in a town, the twelve Futurliners would circle like wagons in a city park, usually around current GM models on loan from local dealers. Large panels on either side opened to reveal displays of futuristic themes--focused, one suspects, on GM's role in them.
Though his days with the Parade ended with Pearl Harbor, he often talked about 'his days on the caravan'--throughout the U.S, Mexico, and even a trip to Havana. Until today, however, I had never seen one, but a photo in the weekend section of the local paper showed fully restored Futurliner No. 10 currently on exhibit at an auto show here in Melbourne.
I even got to climb the stairs and sit in the driver's seat. Way cool. -DJN
Rambling
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Doug and I took off for a few days of camping in the Ocala National Forest where we had such a good time last year. This time we stayed in a small, uncrowded campground at Clearwater Lake. No Disney folks here; just people fishing, playing chess, building wood fires, and hiking. Nearby Mt. Dora is a gorgeous area for biking and we took advantage of the lakeshore road to pedal all the way to Taveres. I love going along a railroad track where the trains still run and you can smell the honeysuckle and orange blossoms for miles. It was just lovely. So many lakes in this part of Florida! Very early one morning we walked the Lake George trail at Silver Glen Springs and were treated to the sight of several bald eagles perched right above our heads. The path was covered by huge trees drooping masses of Spanish moss; warblers, ibises, herons, kingfishers and pileated woodpeckers were the only sounds we heard. It was a favorite!
Thursday, March 6, 2008
Doing Lunch
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It was an extraordinary sight. Without going into unnecessary (as in ‘gross’) detail, it took a while for the heron to figure out how to swallow its catch. When it did, the bulge was clearly visible going down the heron’s long, curved neck.
I’m pretty sure I involuntarily shivered when it was over. And wasn’t quite as hungry as I might have been for a while afterwards. -DJN
Wednesday, March 5, 2008
This Blogger Is a Fraud!
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PS - When I showed my dad this picture, he said "Who is the fat old man on the right?" Can you believe it?!
Sunday, March 2, 2008
Alligator mississipiensis
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Okefenokee
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Thursday, February 28, 2008
Oh, Baby!
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We have made it to North Carolina! After a short, bonus visit with Tom, who was working in the DC area, Doug and I hustled South to spend these last few days with Wendy, Jon and Claire. It is ridiculous how we spend every moment doing 'baby stuff' - making faces, rolling on the floor, bouncing her on our knees. We did bask in some relative warmth at the Duke Gardens and Doug biked the American Tobacco Trail. Tomorrow it is on to the Okefenokee Swamp via the back roads of Georgia.
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